How to Apply a Cat Eye Depending on Your Eye Shape

In the great book of classic makeup looks, it’s safe to say there would definitely be a chapter dedicated to the cat eye. Think about it: The cat eye’s got all the makings of a technique that can stand the test of time, and well, it already has. The winged look dates as far back as the 1920s — when Josephine Baker helped popularize the cat eye by pairing it with super dramatic, lush lashes. Since then, cat-eye connoisseurs like Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot have helped make the wing a mainstay in beauty.

And these days, we’re happy to report the cat eye is still going strong. Cat eyes differ from the classic winged-liner look and tend to be dramatic — both the top and bottom lash line are lined, resembling the look of a real cat, rather than only lining the top lash line.

Grab the eyeliner weapon of your choice — gel, cream, liquid or pencil — and check out these tips from celebrity makeup artists Elle Leary and Emily Oliver. They’ve both offered their expertise on applying cat-eye makeup that anyone can do (even those of us who weren’t born with steady hands). Beginners and pros take note: To achieve a flawless flick at the wing, you’ll need an angled eyeliner brush, your chosen liner and a business card (or the L’Oréal Paris Flash Cat Eyeliner stencil).

One thing we should explain is that the technique stays the same for everyone; it’s the thickness of the line and the length of the wing that change depending on your eye shape.

The basic cat-eye method goes as follows:

STEP 1: FIND THE RIGHT ANGLE

Take your business card (a piece of tape will work, too) and align the edge with the bottom corner of your upper lash line. Make sure you’re holding the card at an angle so the wing is going almost directly upward (at least 45 degrees) and not facing down or angled too horizontally.

STEP 2: START LINING

Using your eyeliner of your choice, draw a line along the edge of the card. “The line should start as a continuation of your last lash, going up and out toward the outer edge of your eyebrow,” says Leary.

FOR CLOSE-SET EYES…

Just as you would want to draw wide-set eyes inward, you’re going to want to extend close-set eyes outward. Make your line sleeker and longer, and slightly more horizontal, so it widens the eye shape. “I love to line the waterline of the top lid,” says Oliver. “Try the Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil, as these really stay put. Make sure not to bring the liner all the way to the inner corners. Keep the focus outward to open up those eyes!”

FOR SMALL EYES…

For smaller eyes, try smudging the line a bit, as too tight or precise a line can make the eyes appear even smaller. “Oftentimes I'll forgo a pencil and use a liquid eye shadow, such as the Giorgio Armani Beauty Eye Tint Liquid Shadow in 10 Senso,” says Oliver. “This pops open the eye and adds structure without closing down the lid. Should you want to use a waterproof eye pencil, line the waterline of the top lid, and push the product into the lashes on top of the lids.” Add your wing and smudge it out, so it takes on a more smoked-out effect that will enlarge the eye area.

FOR HOODED EYES…

“Because the lid is hooded, if you do a small line you will never see it when you open your eyes, so the thicker the better.” We recommend NYX Matte Liquid Liner and an angled brush to perfect this cat eye. Oliver recommends getting under that hood to let your liner take full effect. I’ll get under the top lash line and into its waterline to add some balance,” she says. “I also love to smudge the line outward a little for a sexy smokey cat eye.” For hooded and small eyes, Leary also suggests forgoing eyeliner along on the bottom lash line, as it tends to make the eyes look smaller. Instead, just keep it at the outer edge of the bottom lash line."

FOR ALMOND EYES…

To accentuate an almond shape and create the look of bigger, longer, more seductive eyes, Leary says to keep the line thin along the length and through two-thirds of the eye. “At that point, intensify the thickness and finish with a semi-dramatic wing at the end” she says. For this shape, Leary also recommends bringing the liner (We recommend L’Oréal Paris Infallible Pro Last Liner in Black) onto the bottom lash line to really drive home the cat eye makeup shape.

FOR UPTURNED EYES…

Upturned eyes take on a similar shape to almond shapes. However, they have a natural lift at the outer corners that draw them upward. This makes them ideal for a cat eye. “Follow the natural uplifted shape and work the liner outward toward the temple,” says Oliver.

FOR DOWNTURNED EYES…

Downturned eyes droop slightly at the outer corners, so a wing is ideal in creating a nice, natural lifting effect. “The trick here is to start the line much higher than you would think,” says Oliver. “Try leaning your head back and making a line that points at a 45-degree angle, starting from the middle of the eye outward toward the temple.”  

FOR MONOLIDS…

Because this eye shape doesn’t  have a crease, you want to keep the liner as close to the lash line as possible, and then go for a thick, elongated wing. “It really helps to give the eye some definition, shape and length.” To create a precise line Leary went over the base pencil eyeliner with a liquid formula, NYX Super Skinny Eye Marker. If you want your eyes to look rounder and more doll-like, Leary suggests you keep the liner thicker in the middle of the eye and shorter at the wing. “This will create the illusion of an eye that is more curved,” she says.

Read More: 

The Best Smoky Eye for Your Eye Shape (It’s Easier Than You Think) 

The Best Eyeliner Hacks for Your Eye Shape

How to Wear Different Colored Eyeshadows on Each Eye Without Looking Insane