Should Your Hair Be Clean or Dirty Before Getting It Colored?
August 02, 2024
As you count the days in your calendar until your next hair appointment and prepare for freshly-colored strands, you may be wondering, “Should I wash my hair before dyeing it?” It’s a common question, and there can be confusion around it—especially since much of the advice on the internet is outdated.
Does that coating of dry shampoo or hairspray from last Saturday’s blowout help or hinder hair color from gripping the follicle? Just how dirty is too dirty for an appointment? And can you dye wet hair or should you dry it before heading to the salon? To help set the record straight on all of this and more, we consulted with Redken artist and hairstylist, Hannah Matthews Moore.
Should You Wash Your Hair Before Dyeing It?
You may be under the impression that it’s best to go a day or two between washes before dyeing your hair, but according to Moore, you should usually wash your hair before coloring it. “There was a time when hair color was very harsh and you needed a barrier between it and your skin,” she says. That’s not the case anymore: Today, hairstylists generally prefer the hair to be clean before dyeing it.
“Hair color these days is different from when your mother and grandmother got their hair done,” Moore explains. “It used to be recommended that you come with dirty hair, but now that hair color has changed to more gentle formulas, it needs as little barrier as possible to effectively color your hair.” In fact, she says, today’s hair color doesn’t adhere as well if the hair is dirty.
Note that while you can wash your hair the same day you dye it, you don’t have to lather up immediately prior to hitting the salon. “A shampoo the night before is totally fine,” Moore says. There are exceptions, of course. If you’re sweaty or just hit the gym, wash your hair before heading to the salon. Just be sure to dry it thoroughly (or have your colorist dry it). While you can dye wet hair, doing so requires a different technique than coloring dry strands.
Does Hair Dye Color Matter When Deciding Whether or Not to Wash It?
While your hair should be clean for all hair coloring services, how clean may depend on the color you’re going for. In most cases, having freshly washed strands is ideal—as Moore says, “hair color needs the path of least resistance” for the most seamless end results. This is especially true if you’re using a semi-permanent hair color, like a hair gloss. According to Moore, these gentler formulas may have a harder time breaking through oil and product build-up—so if you want a seamless color, a thorough shampooing prior to your appointment is key.
There are, however, exceptions. If you have a sensitive scalp and are getting a root touch-up—or are having bleach applied directly to your scalp—second-day hair is best, Moore says. The slight “barrier” provided by your scalp’s natural oils can help prevent your scalp from tingling or feeling irritated while your color is processing. If you’re unsure if hair dye will irritate your scalp, talk to your dermatologist and hair colorist before your appointment.
Is It Best To Skip Washes Before Bleaching?
Bleach can be harsh on your scalp and strands, so it’s not surprising that people often opt to skip a few washes before bleaching their hair. According to Moore, that’s not the best approach. You should still wash your hair before bleaching it—just perhaps not immediately before.
“If your hair is too dirty, it will not lift enough,” Moore says. “And believe me, [a single] on-scalp bleach application is enough for one day.” She suggests lathering up the day before bleaching your hair for the best results. “The stimulation on your head (scratching, scrubbing, etc.) from shampooing could cause your head to be tingly or itchy when the product is applied,” she explains. If your scalp is extremely sensitive, you can wash your hair up to two days before your appointment.
Can Hair Products Interfere With the Coloring Process?
“Styling products and sprays can definitely create barriers between the hair and the color product,” Moore says. So when it comes to styling your hair before an appointment, a less-is-more approach is best. A bit of product on the mids and ends of the hair isn’t a big deal, but avoid applying oil or gel to your scalp (especially before a root application), as doing so can result in a patchy, uneven color. Similarly, use hot tools with care. Heat can damage the hair and make it more porous, Moore explains. And damaged hair “will absorb and react to color differently than healthy hair.” If your hair is super damaged, you may want to consult with your colorist before committing to that bleach session or intense all-over dye job.
When Can You Wash Your Hair After Dyeing It?
Wait at least 48 hours if not up to 72 hours after your hair color appointment before washing it. Waiting a bit “gives your new color a chance to settle in and [allows] the bonds in your hair to harden again,” says Moore. It can also extend the life of your color.
“If you have hair color that fades easily, like a direct dye (fun rainbow color), or are a redhead of any kind, it is best to shampoo less often to protect the hair color,” she says. Aim for two or three days between washes if possible (lean on dry shampoo if you’re prone to oiliness).
When you are ready to wash up, be sure to use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to help preserve your color. This is especially important if you have a bright hair color that fades easily, notes Moore. We recommend using the Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate collection, as it helps protect against color fading and strengthens damaged, color-treated hair. The lineup includes six products that you can mix and match according to your needs: a bond-repairing pre-shampoo treatment, a shampoo, a lightweight conditioner, a richer conditioner, a reparative five-minute mask, and a heat-protecting leave-in treatment. All of the products are sulfate-free and designed to help combat visible damage while smoothing, strengthening, and repairing your strands.
When it comes to the rest of your styling routine, look for nourishing formulas. “Products that offer moisture and strength to the hair are going to make sure the hair is in good enough shape to hold hair color,” advises Moore. “Treat, treat, treat your hair before, after, and during your service and at home. This is the best way to create a brilliant canvas for your hairdresser to work on.”
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